What the artist wrote and felt about more than a century ago is true, even today, of every handloom weaver. There is a beautiful video uploaded on Facebook by Mumbai-based fashion designer Vaishali Shadangule showing the jamdani weavers working in Bengal. The intricate hand embroidery to get the right motifs that the weaver does simultaneously while weaving the sari is absolutely mesmerising, and in no way less artistic than a painting by Van Gogh, S Raza, Jehangir Sabavala, M F Hussain or others.
It's not only the jamdani weavers. If one visits paithani weavers in Paithan in Maharashtra, double ikat or patola weavers of Patan in Gujarat, ikat weavers in Mayurbhanj in Odisha, kanchivaram weavers from Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu, banarasi weavers from Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh, and many other traditional handloom weavers from every state of India, one can see them work on their canvas of looms with various coloured silk and cotton threads to come out with a magnificent work of art in the form of handloom fabric.
But the world's famous painters' works fetch them lakhs and crores of rupees whereas the handloom weavers are hard-pressed to make both ends meet. Inconsistent and long hours of work, pitiable wages, and grim living conditions are making the present generation of workers leave their centuries-old art and migrate to cities in search of livelihood.
And the number of handloom weavers in India isn't small. According to the Ministry of Textiles, there are more than 43 lakh weavers working on nearly 24 lakh handlooms. But the designers and activists say there are more than two crores of them. The government data says the weavers produce some 7,203 million square metres of cloth, of which some is exported and some is consumed in the domestic market. The export market fetched nearly Rs 2,246 crores in 2014-15. There is no known data of returns from the domestic market.
According to the textile ministry statistics, Varanasi alone has nearly 90,000 weavers today, Telangana and Andhra Pradesh 3,55,000, Tamil Nadu 3,52,000, West Bengal 7,79,000, Bihar 37,000, Gujarat 9,500, Rajasthan 31,000, Jammu & Kashmir 21,000, Karnataka 90,000, and the count continues in every other state. The sad part is that the number of active traditional weavers in every state is falling alarmingly and unless some quick measures are taken, we might end up losing our rich traditional art forever.
In the last couple of years, media and fashion designers suddenly seem to have woken up to the presence of handloom weavers and the necessity to help them. Many fashion shows like the Lakme Fashion Week, India Couture Fashion Week, India Fashion week, India Bridal Fashion Week etc include a separate day for Indian textiles and designers to showcase only traditional weaves on that day. But, is this all really helping the weavers, or is this only a photo-op for the fashion weeks and the designers?
"I am still waiting to see fashion designers truly working at the grass roots and then highlighting the practitioners in an equal manner," observes former politician Jaya Jaitly, who has been a crusader for Indian crafts and textiles for 40 years now. Speaking further, the 74-year-old tireless social worker says, "Designers usually go to the best weavers so that their designs are superior right from the inception. And then focus on their brand name alone. I would like them to choose semi-skilled distressed weavers and raise their economic and confidence levels considerably."
In the modern days, Jaitly is one of the few women who have founded organisations solely to help Indian weavers and crafts. She founded Dastkari Haat Samiti way back in 1986, which is based on the idea of being an association of crafts people in which they decide and guide their own destiny with help from Jaitly and her group.
Then there is 69-year-old Laila Tyabji. A social worker who is better-known for her work as a craft revivalist and art designer, she is the founder of the NGO Dastkar, which is a society for crafts and crafts people and only works for the revival of traditional crafts in India. Tyabji also wants to make saris fashionable, trendy and cool for Gen Y. In fact, in the month of June, for 30 days, she made it a point to take a selfie of her wearing a different handloom sari everyday and post it on her Facebook account! Quoting Albert Einstein who had said, "I fear the day that technology will surpass our human interaction. The world will have a generation of idiots," she says, "We should not forget the power and creativity of human hand. Handloom has extraordinary design and skill traditions that are unique."
At the state level, too, there are a few organisations like SEWA in Gujarat, Boyanika in Odisha, Co-optex in Tamil Nadu, Rehwa in Madhya Pradesh etc.
And there are quite a few designers who are going all out to work with the handloom sector. In 2001, the Textile Committee of the Ministry of Textiles started a cluster development programme where 20 clusters from about 469 handloom clusters were zeroed in and many fashion designers have been part of this programme. In fact, designers like Anavila Misra, Sanjay Garg, and others have been a part of this programme. And since last year, designers like Ritu Kumar, Shaina N C, Anita Dongre and Rina Dhaka have stepped in to help the Banaras weavers as part of the government's initiative to help this sector.
"If weavers get enough work, the young ones will return home to their looms. They just need work and support," chorus fashion designers like Ritu Kumar (banarasi of Varanasi), Deepika Govind (eri and muga silk of Karnataka), Vaishali Shadangule (chanderi from MP, jamdani of Bengal, khand from Bagalkot), Sanjay Garg (chanderi from MP), Anita Dongre (tie & dye of Jaipur, chikankari from UP), Anavila Misra (linen from Bihar), Aneet Arora (embroidery and fabric from Rajasthan), Wendell Rodricks (kunbi sari of Goa) and every other designer who is trying to work with Indian handlooms, revive and save the traditional weavers and hundreds-of-years-old heirloom craft!
Elaborating on the initiatives to help the handloom sector, Ritu Kumar gave credit to the social reformer and freedom fighter, the late Kamaladevi Chattopadhyay, who identified the importance of the handloom sector. Chattopadhyay was the first driving force behind the renaissance of Indian handlooms, handicrafts and theatre soon after Independence. She was the one who was instrumental in setting up the All India Handicrafts Board way back in 1952.
Her efforts were followed by another stalwart, Pupal Jaykar, who was also known for the revival of Indian handlooms and handicrafts. In fact, at the behest of India's first prime minister Jawaharlal Nehru, she studied the handloom sector and worked out plans for its revival. Later, with support from the late prime ministers Indira Gandhi and Rajiv Gandhi, in the 1980s, she organised a series of Indian arts festivals in France, USA and Japan, which helped popularise Indian arts and handlooms in the West.
Behind the scene
All their efforts went kaput with the success of powerlooms and big textile mills. A handloom product is time-consuming. For example, depending on its intricacy, it takes days and months to weave a sari, whereas powerlooms produce hundreds of them in that period. Also, though the cost of establishment of powerlooms and textile mills may be thousand times more than that of handlooms, the faster pace of production makes the products purse-friendly and attractive to mass buyers.
Handloom can never be prêt, admit the designers. In fact, even in the olden times, handloom weavers flourished because of royal patronage. As and when the royal benefaction fell, weavers started facing a decline in their earnings. There was a conscious shift by the aam junta towards adopting designs imported from England and France. Motifs such as badam (almonds), kairi (mango), kamal (lotus), mor (peacock), butis (small flower clusters), the shikargah (hunting scene) etc were replaced by rosettes, geometric patterns and others that were popular in the British designs.
"Many of our handloom weavers and skills were taken away to Britain by the British, and if we don't look after the remaining sectors, by next century we might even lose these heritage weaves of ours," lamented Shadangule who recently showcased at NY Fashion Week in the emerging designer's section. Her entire collection consisted of only Indian handlooms under the collection titled 'And quiet flows the thread'.
Besides the skills of the weavers, the beauty of Indian textiles is due to the handmade natural yarn — be it cotton or silk. The texture of the handmade yarn itself is so beautiful that it adds its own design and beauty to the fabric. And, even though the yarn is thick, it retains its utter softness, making even a nine-yard ornately woven sari from Banaras or Paithan a delightful experience for the wearer.
Designer Anavila Misra, famous for her linen saris, endorses this observation. She says, "Indian fabrics and textiles are so fine that one needs to just play with the colours and textures to create a dream pattern!"
But, because of the painstaking yarn-making process, it costs more. This was another reason for the declining popularity of the handloom sectors as traditional weavers found themselves competing with other weavers and powerlooms which started using cheaper silk yarns from China. The cheap Chinese silk yarn certainly didn't have the quality of Indian silks. They were stiff and bulkier, making the wearer quite uncomfortable. This resulted in the buyers moving away from traditional handlooms to chiffons, georgette, net or other synthetic yarns, which complemented a body-shape-conscious woman.
This was also the time when size zero gained popularity and the buxom Indian woman became unfashionable. Equally to blame were the fashion designers who, keeping in mind the cravings of the new era woman to look thistle-thin, continued to design using non-handloom fabrics. Of course, the biggest culprit was the film industry where female actors looked ethereal in diaphanous chiffon saris. For an average Indian woman, Bollywood is the trendsetter.
"Small towns copy what becomes fashionable in big cities. They follow the trends of movie stars and fashion from society magazines. I am horrified that such an influential section of society happily wears Western attire that does not suit the Indian physique or skin colour at all. Yet, a Vidya Balan or a Katrina Kaif wearing a handloom sari has created a rage. I beg more of them to do service to society by shopping more for lovely handlooms and flaunting them with pride," urged Jaitly.
Another reason for the declining popularity of handlooms is the misconception that they are fit only for ethnic apparel, and as they are expensive, they are meant only for special occasions.
This is where every designer is pitching in to popularise the handlooms. Even though all of them don't exactly interact at grass-roots level with weavers, they are innovating in style. So every fashion week, well-known shopping malls, prestigious boutiques, and of course, every designer, showcases handlooms in contemporary designs. Every collection will have short kurtis, tunics, jackets, palazzos, short tops, gowns, bustier, besides of course, the evergreen salwar kameez beautifully designed using chanderi, paithani, banaras, maheshwari, ikat, jamdani, muga and other handlooms. At any given time and event, the charm of these clothes overshadows all other highly expensive and highly embellished designer wear.
"A handloom sari too can look trendy to suit the 20-30-year-old's psych of looking 'cool'," says designer Deepika Govind. "All they have to do is replace the traditional blouse with a top of their liking, drape the sari differently, and replace their traditional footwear with anything they like. Especially for Indian weather, there is nothing more comfortable than handloom cotton tops, skirts, bottoms and jackets. If accessorised properly, every attire can look trendy and comfy!"
A smiling Jaitly says, "I have heard young men say they love saris and that I should encourage young women to wear handloom saris! So I am using this opportunity to pass on their message."